The water meter is located at the front of the property in the ground and covered with a metal lid. The vast majority of PGUD’s water meters are located along the front of the property. However, some are located in side or rear yards. Meters are generally located at the front of the property near the street. They may also be located in the common grassy area between the driveways if you live in a subdivision.
The sole purpose of this device is to measure a consumer’s consumption so that it can be properly billed and accounted for. Since water rates are set to ensure sufficient revenues to operate the system, it is only fair to all customers that each and every account is properly metered.
At Poplar Grove Utility District, we use an Automated Meter Reading (AMR) system. This initiative came after many months of evaluation of the various AMR technologies available.
PGUD is constantly looking for ways to improve service to its customers. The benefits of an automated meter reading system include:
- Increased employee productivity
- Reduce future meter reading costs and water loss
- Improved accuracy through the elimination of human error
- Improved customer service initiatives, including leak detection and hourly consumption history
- Provide a safer work environment for PGUD employees
- Minimize the need for monthly access to a customer’s property (PGUD will still need to access to troubleshoot, repair and/or replace a water meter)
Older meters run slower and therefore do not measure all the water going through them, particularly at lower flow rates of ¼ gallon per minute or less. The new water meter will accurately measure all the water you use. Every new meter is tested at the factory to ensure that it registers properly. If you see a high bill, it is usually not because your new meter is reading too high; it is because the old meter was running slow or you may have a small leak.
AMR water meters have electronic digital registers that record and verify the meter reading before it is sent to the transmitting unit. This reading is deemed more accurate than visually reading the meter because humans can drop or transpose numbers in the process of reading meters.
If your bill is high, be sure to check faucets for small drips and listen to toilet valves to see if they run unexpectedly. You can also check your toilet flapper valve for a leak by placing a few drops of food coloring in the tank itself. If the water in the bowl changes color prior to flushing, you have a leak. It is also not uncommon to find leaks in service lines entering your home. Seek assistance from a plumbing professional or your local home improvement center to fix all such leaks.
The name is Temperature Pressure Relief Valve (TPR valve). This safety valve releases water (and thus relieves pressure) if either the temperature or pressure in the tank gets too high. These valves are very important. Water heaters can become bombs if the pressure gets too high and these valves fail to work. These valves can begin to run water either because
- the valve has become defective, or
- the pressure in the tank it exceeding the relief point.
If your TPR valve suddenly started leaking when it didn’t use to, and you haven’t had any plumbing renovation work done recently, the valve may simply be defective. As the valves get older they sometimes begin to leak. It may be if it has released small amounts of water over time this water has built up deposits in the valve that begin to interfere with it closing. Or, perhaps a particle from the tank gets stuck in the seat holding it partly open. There’s a lever on the valve that lets you open it deliberately. Some people will advise you do this periodically to be sure it’s working properly. In our experience if you open an older valve it’s likely it will never close properly again – it will begin weeping when it wasn’t before.
These valves are cheap and there’s only one problem replacing them — sometimes they’re hard to unscrew. You may need a long handled wrench with a cheater. Turn off the gas or electricity and cold water supply to the tank. You only need to drain enough water to get below the level of the valve. Don’t drain a lot of water until you’ve broken the valve loose, so the weight of the water helps keep the heater from moving while you pull on the wrench. Wrap some teflon tape on the threads of the new valve when you replace it.
Note: If you also replace the discharge tube, it must be made of a material that’s rated for both high temperature and pressure. This includes most rigid wall copper, iron and, in most places, chlorinated polyvinylchloride (CPVC plastic not regular PVC) pipe. The pipe size must match the opening size of the TPR valve discharge (usually ¾ inch). It must terminate 6″-12″ above the floor, and the end cannot be threaded or have a fitting which permits connecting a plug or cap.
The other reason for the TPR valve to run water is high pressure in the water heater tank. This is usually caused by one of two things — high main water pressure or a back flow prevention/check valve.
Houses built or renovated in the past 10-20 years may have a back flow prevention valve in the water supply line. These valves only allow water to go in one direction. Building codes have begun to require them so that once water enters your house it cannot move backward into the water supply system. This introduces a new problem. When the water in the water heater tank is heated it expands, making a greater volume of water. This extra water needs somewhere to go. If all the faucets in the house are closed it can’t go that way. Before these one-way valves, water was simply pushed back out of the house into the main supply. The backflow valve prevents this, so the extra water has no place to go and pressure builds in the tank until it exceeds the TPR valve set point (about 120 psi) and water comes out the TPR discharge tube. As you may have guessed this isn’t good. The solution is to install an expansion tank in the cold water line between the backflow valve and the water heater. These tanks give the extra water a place to go. If your builder installed a backflow valve he should have also installed an expansion tank but… if you have an expansion tank it may have failed.
If the main water supply pressure is too high this can also cause the pressure to exceed the TPR valve set point. The Uniform Plumbing Code calls for water delivered to homes for domestic use at between 50 to 70 psi. Supply lines as well as appliances are designed to withstand up to 80 pounds per square inch.
If the supply pressure at your meter exceeds these numbers, a water pressure regulator should be installed to reduce the pressure to between 50 and 70 psi. Over time the rubber and metal parts in these regulators can fail. When the regulator fails, water pressure to the home may increase putting a strain on valves, hoses and appliances they were not designed to withstand. Keep in mind that a pressure regulator will also behave like a backflow valve — it will not allow water to go backward through it.
If you suspect the pressure in your water heater is too high you can buy a water pressure gauge and check it yourself.
Connect the gauge to the water heater drain faucet (garden hose thread) and open the valve. Run hot water at a kitchen or bathroom sink until the water heater turns on. Stop the flow of hot water. If the pressure starts creeping up as the heater heats the water, this is a closed system and an expansion tank is necessary.
If the pressure does not increase as the water is heated, but the pressure reads above 80 psi all the time, your supply pressure is too high. Install a pressure reducing valve. To check the supply (main) pressure you can also connect the gauge to an outdoor faucet, and turn on the faucet. Make sure the faucet is “regulated”. Some outdoor faucets are unregulated. If the pipe connected to the faucet comes out of the wall it’s probably regulated.
Chlorination has played the primary role in protecting America’s drinking water since the early 1900’s and is responsible for a large part of the 50 percent increase in life expectancy in this century. This simple disinfection process combined with filtration led Life magazine to conclude that the water purification process as it was refined in the 20th century was “probably the most significant public health advance of the millennium.” In 1850, John Snow used chlorine to attempt disinfection in London water supplies after an outbreak of cholera. Sims Woodhead used “bleach solution” in 1897 as a temporary measure to sterilize potable water distribution mains at Maidstone, Kent (England) following a typhoid outbreak. After dramatic reduction in typhoid deaths in Great Britain, Jersey City, N.J., adopted chlorination in 1908. Other cities across the US soon followed suit and resulted in the virtual elimination of waterborne diseases such as cholera, typhoid, dysentery and hepatitis A. Prior to the chlorination of drinking water, water borne pathogens killed about 25 out of 100,000 people in the US annually, a death rate that approximates that associated with automobile accidents today.
Although many consumers believe bottled water is safer than tap water, this is not generally the case. A recent study revealed that a large percentage of bottled water is simply tap water in a bottle sold at a 100 to 1,000 times the price. For example, a typical gallon jug of bottled water ranges from $0.99 to $4 compared to just over half a cent for a gallon of PGUD tap water. The quality of bottled water can also greatly vary depending on its source, production process, packaging material, and shelf-life before use. Until 1993, there were no proposed federal standards for bottled water and in many states it was unregulated. It wasn’t until 1996 that bottled water was required to meet many of the same regulations as tap water.
No. Independent agencies such as the Federal Trade Commission and Consumers Union (publisher of Consumer Reports) have determined home water treatment devices are not necessary for health reasons as long as the water supplier meets state and federal requirements. Rest assured PGUD maintains compliance with regulated drinking water standards